СПРАВОЧНИК МАСТЕРА THE BRA-FITTING MASTER HANDBOOK - PART 1

WITH THIS IN MIND, WE INVITED KATARZYNA SALATA, THE FAMOUS POLISH BRA FITTER, TO HOLD A SERIES OF MASTER CLASSES ON THIS KEY TOPIC. ENJOY YOUR LEARNING!

PHOTO: DOBRA KREACJA STUDYING THE STRUCTURE OF THE FIGURE, YOU CAN QUICKLY DETERMINE THE CORRECT BRA SIZE AND CONSTRUCTION. LOOK AT THE PHOTO AND SEE HOW THE SAME BRA ON DIFFERENT FIGURES FITS IN DIFFERENT WAYS. WHAT DIFFERENCES DO YOU SEE?

The correct bra size is not everything. It is essential to learn how to determine how the client breathes, to be able to analyze the structure of the ribs and sternum, and listen carefully to the client. All this will make it possible to identify and satisfy her needs.
Measuring the Breast and Under the Breast
According to the general principles of bra fitting, both measurements must be made: a) in the fitting room, b) with a measuring tape, and c) over the bra that the client is wearing. When the client breathes out, measure the circumference under the breast (a measuring tape should be placed tightly around the body) and then subtract 3 to 5cm from the result. We measure the chest circumference at nipple level, while the measuring tape should lie freely. If the mammary gland is large or flabby, you should ask the client to bend over slightly. The difference between the circumference of the breast and under the breast will be the cup size. While taking measurements, you should also evaluate the clients figure. It doesn’t take up additional time and staying in the fitting room with a client allows you to find out a lot of information, which is necessary for choosing the correct bra.

PHOTO: DOBRA KREACJA
TWO SIMPLE PRINCIPLES WILL HELP YOU TO TAKE THE RIGHT MEASUREMENTS UNDER THE BREAST. FIRST OF ALL, PLACEMENT OF A MEASURING TAPE ON THE BACK SHOULD BE STRICTLY HORIZONTAL. SO THAT IT DOES NOT SLIP, IT IS NECESSARY THAT IT IS PLACED TIGHTLY AROUND THE BODY.

1 Ask the client to stand sideways in the mirror, so that you can see the reflection of her back while you are measuring. This allows you to ensure that the measuring tape is positioned correctly and make sure that it does not slip down, but is at the same height in on both the front and back.

2 Before measuring the circumference under the chest, ask the client to lift up the bra band. This is necessary in order to take the correct measurement. Remember that measurements must be only made at the base of the mammary glands. If you measure below, on the abdomen, the result will be bigger than it really is, the size will not be correct, and you will spend more time on this service.

PHOTO: DOBRA KREACJA
IT IS NECESSARY TO MEASURE WHEN A CLIENT EXPIRES, STRICTLY AT THE BASE OF MAMMARY GLANDS. ASK THE CLIENT TO LIFT UP THE BRA BAND. LOOK FOR DIFFERENCES IN MEASUREMENTS DURING BREATHING. YOU CAN BRING A BRA WITH OPTIMAL ELASTICITY INTO THE FITTING ROOM.

3 While taking measurements, pay attention to the chest’s bone structure, width and shape of the ribs and sternum, the width of the shoulders and the height of the breast. This data will help to determine the correct bra construction, especially in regards to underwiring and the distance between straps.

4 While measuring under the chest, pay attention to the difference in circumference when the client breathes out and in. If it is more than 5- 7cm, it is possible that a bra with an elastic brand is more suitable, or one with a band that is larger than the circumference during expiration. This can be related to, for example, diaphragmatic rib cage breathing or an increase in lung volume, necessary for sports or physical exercises such as yoga. This is also the case of people whose work is associated with increased vocal stress, such as actors, singers and teachers. The increased amplitude during inspiration and expiration can reach up to 12cm.

PHOTO: DOBRA KREACJA
YOU CAN QUICKLY CONVINCE THE CLIENT TO CHANGE A BRA THAT IS TOO LOOSE TO A MORE SUITABLE ONE, TAKING INTO ACCOUNT HER ANATOMICAL STRUCTURE, IF YOU EXPLAIN THE HEALTH BENEFITS, I.E., THE CORRECT SUPPORT OF THE MAMMARY GLANDS IN THE ABSENCE OF CURVATURE OF THE THORACIC SPINE AND SKIN STRAINS.

NB Remember that the final size of the bra is determined during the individual bra fitting. On account of the anatomical features of the body, the material of the bra, and its style, even products from the same brand may have differences in size.
Why Are Measurements So Important? - Firstly, the definition of circumference, especially under the breast, helps convince a woman to change her lingerie habits. For example, if the measuring tape shows 74cm, it is necessary to explain that a looser band can cause mammary gland problems. A stable band guarantees better mammary glands and pectoral muscles, and also, encourages correct posture. - Secondly, as a result of pressure from straps with a loose band, the collagen fibers shorten and the skin looses its elasticity. Prolonged compression deforms the muscles of the shoulder girdle and the dents form on the shoulders. Caring for breast health by choosing the right bra improves the quality and comfort of life. - Thirdly, by measuring the client in the fitting room, you have the opportunity to pay attention to the state of the chest, its anatomy and the type of breathing. It is also a chance to note possible anomalies, for example, a funnel-shaped or convex chest, or skin discolorations like spots, moles, red marks under the breast, edema or bruises under the arms in the place where the wires finish. All this will help to choose the right bra style. Bra fitting success is a conscious care for breast health, it means a comfortable bra, matched to the woman’s figure, appropriate for her lifestyle and meeting her needs. In the next issue of the Bra Fitting Master Handbook, I will explain how to apply knowledge about the structure of the breast and lymphatic system to the bra fitting process.
Anatomical knowledge of the chest is very important when choosing a bra and educating clients. If you have any questions, write to me:
info@dobrakreacja.pl
www.DobraKreacja.pl
facebook.com/DobraKreacja

PHOTO: DOBRA KREACJA
ADJUSTMENT OF THE STRAPS IS THE LAST STAGE OF THE BRA FITTER’S WORK. IN A PROPERLY FITTED BRA, 80% OF THE WEIGHT OF THE BREAST FALLS ON THE BRA BAND.

She has been working in the lingerie industry since 2006, and in 2013 she founded the international independent consulting company Dobra Kreacja. Katarzyna Salata provides advice to lingerie companies’ teams of designers and design studios of the lingerie companies. She was the first in the bra fitting industry to take into account the individual anatomical features of the chest when choosing a bra. She is an expert in the field of the bra construction, adjustments and sales, she conducts trainings for manufacturers, wholesalers and store’s sales assistants in Poland and abroad. She provides active assistance to the Amazons (women who have undergone breast surgery), and conducts professional master-classes in Bra fitting (International Brafitting MasterClass), as well as individual seminars for lingerie stores.